How Paris High Jewelry Houses Are Doubling Down On Yellow Diamonds

Barbiecore refusniks take heart. While “Gen-Z Yellow” hasn’t caught on in the same way as its “Millennial Pink” counterpart, when it comes to diamonds, it’s a different story. During July’s High Jewelry Week in Paris, heritage houses doubled down on yellow diamonds.


Centerpiece of its Sunrise exhibition at Graff’s Paris flagship by Place Vendôme was a new high jewelry necklace centrepieced by a 30 carat fancy intense yellow pear shaped diamond surrounded by a further 138 carats in both yellow and white.

“The pavé makes the yellow look more intense,” said Graff Art Director Anne Eva Goffrey who described how the stone seems to be floating thanks to Graff’s hallmark setting technique where the metal joins are practically invisible.

Graff has long been synonymous with yellow diamonds. House founder Laurence Graff was one of the first to introduce the yellow diamond when everyone else was focused on the white, she said, adding that now, “more ladies choose yellow over white when it comes to engagement rings.”

Purpose of the exhibition is to show how many the different gradations of yellow there can be. “Normally when you think of yellow diamonds you only think about one color but wanted to show all the very different saturations we work with.”

While handcraftsmanship is and always will be paramount, she says, the house still pushes the limits when it comes to innovative technology. The studio uses 3D printing during the prototyping process to refine the volumes and articulations.

“It’s very useful because we gain time and it gives the workshop more precision but you need the balance. When you make jewelry by hand, it has a soul and the pieces talk with emotion. If you just

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